PNOA Enchantment Traverse Backpacking Trip: September 28 – October 1, 2025

A Grueling Yet Glorious Adventure in the Alpine Wonderland of Washington’s Enchantments
Hey there, fellow hikers and adventure seekers! If you’ve ever dreamed of conquering one of the most iconic backpacking routes in the Pacific Northwest, buckle up—because our group of 8 intrepid souls just did exactly that. The Enchantment Traverse, a point-to-point thru-hike through the stunning Enchantments area in Washington’s Alpine Lakes Wilderness, lived up to its legendary reputation as a test of endurance, willpower, and sheer love for the mountains. From smoky starts to bone-chilling rains and jaw-dropping alpine vistas, this 4-day trip (September 28 to October 1, 2025) was equal parts brutal and breathtaking. Join me as I relive the highs (and lows) of our journey, complete with a day-by-day breakdown.
The Setup: Why the Enchantments?
The Enchantment Traverse is no casual stroll—it’s a demanding 32-35 km (20-22 miles) route with over 1,400m of elevation gain crammed into the first half, followed by a knee-jarring descent. It’s split into four distinct parts that capture the essence of why this place is a bucket-list must:
1. Hike to Colchuck Lake: A moderate 8 km climb through lush forests on a well-groomed trail. Expect crowds here—everyone’s gunning for those turquoise waters and the iconic Dragontail Peak reflections. It’s the “easy” warm-up, but don’t let that fool you.
2. Assault on Aasgard Pass: The beast of the trip. This 2 km, 700m ascent averages a 35% gradient over loose scree, rocks, and dirt, marked by cairns. It’s where the wheat separates from the chaff—many turn back, but we powered through with heavy packs, turning it into a full-body grind.
3. The Core Enchantments: Pure magic. Over 6 km of sauntering through heather meadows, granite slabs, and a string of pristine alpine lakes (Isolation, Tranquility, Perfection—you name it). The jagged peaks loomed like something out of a fantasy novel. This is the payoff: easy navigation via cairns, but grab a map for peace of mind. Many groups stop at one (or more) of the stunning lakes throughout this section.
4. Descent to Snow Lakes Trailhead: The unglamorous finale. After Lake Viviane, it’s 15+ km downhill—starting with a scrambly, steep 2 km drop, then switchbacks that feel endless (though Nada and Upper Snow Lakes offer sweet respites). Dull? Maybe. Tireless? Absolutely. But hey, it gets you out.
We snagged permits through the brutal lottery system (shoutout to our organizer for the win!), and with 8 of us—friends from all walks of life, bonded by a shared itch for epic trails—we were ready to rumble.
Day 1: September 28 – Road Trip and Smoky Anticipation
We kicked off from Surrey, BC, around 10:00 AM, piling into two vehicles for the ~6-hour drive to Leavenworth, WA (border crossing shaved it down to about 4 hours, thank goodness). The air was thick with smoke from nearby wildfires—visibility was meh, and our excitement was tempered by a hazy forecast. We rolled into Leavenworth by late afternoon, stretching our legs with a stroll through the charming Bavarian-style downtown. Last-minute supply run at the outdoor shop (extra socks, anyone?), a hearty Bavarian pretzel snack, and we crashed early at our motel, dreaming of clear skies.
Day 2: September 29 – Into the Enchantments: Smoke, Grind, and a Chilly Welcome
Rise and shine at dawn! We hit the Stuart Lake Trailhead by 8:00 AM (elevation ~1,036m). Shuttle time: Dropped everyone off, shuttled two vehicles to the Snow Lakes Trailhead (50-minute round trip), and displayed our printed permits proudly on the dashboards. Back at Stuart by 9:00 AM, we shouldered our big backpacks (we’re talking 20-30 kg loads for multi-day gear) and dove in.
• First Leg: 3.7 km to the trail junction, then left toward Colchuck Lake. Another 4.3 km uphill through forest—steady but scenic. Total to the lake: ~8 km.
• The Beast: Aasgard Pass. Oh man. That 1.6 km, 580m gain was a real grind. Loose dirt sliding underfoot, rocks testing our balance, and those packs pulling us backward like anchors. We huffed, puffed, and high-fived at the top, where the crowds thinned—only the die-hards press on.
We descended into the Core Zone, aiming for Tranquil Lake campground. Just 11 km total for the day, but with ~1,459m of gain, it felt like double. As we staked our tents by the shimmering lake, a light rain started in the evening—blessed relief from the smoke, clearing the air for tomorrow. Little did we know…
Day 3: September 30 – From Deluge to Delight: The Long Haul Down
…that the light rain would turn into a heavy downpour overnight. Tucked into our sleeping bags at Tranquil Lake, the temperature plummeted. Rain hammered the tents, wind howled, and by morning, we were all shivering wrecks—teeth chattering, fingers numb. “Cold” doesn’t cover it; it was a full-on shake-fest. But hey, silver lining: The storm scrubbed the skies crystal clear.
We broke camp under bluebird conditions and tackled the descent:
• Through the Core: Sauntered past Perfection Lake, Sprite Falls, and the Snow Lakes—larches turning golden (fall colors were popping!).
• The Grind Down: 21 km total, ~1,980m loss. The first 2 km post-Viviane was ugly—steep scrambling on rocks that jarred every joint. Then, endless switchbacks to the Snow Lakes Trailhead. Dull? Sure. But those lake respites kept spirits high.
We emerged victorious by late afternoon, dusty and triumphant, piling back into the vehicles.
Day 4: October 1 – Bavarian Farewell and Homeward Bound
No rush today— we treated ourselves to a lazy morning in Leavenworth. Wandered the shops, sipped coffee in the autumn sun, and fueled up with an all-you-can-eat lunch at Four Seasons Buffet (pro tip: their stir-fry station is legendary). Then, the ~6-hour drive back to Surrey, swapping stories and plotting the next adventure. Home by evening, sore but smiling.
Final Thoughts: Worth Every Blister
Whew. The Enchantments Traverse was challenging—smoke, that merciless pass, the cold snap—but incredibly rewarding. Those alpine lakes? Otherworldly. The camaraderie with our group of 8? Priceless. If you’re fit, prepared, and permit-lucky, put this on your list. It’s not just a hike; it’s a rite of passage.
Thanks for joining the recap—what’s your wildest backpacking tale? Drop it in the comments!
Photos forthcoming—stay tuned!

PNOA 魔法区横贯背包旅行:2025 年 9 月 28 日 – 10 月 1 日
华盛顿魔法区阿尔卑斯仙境中的艰苦却辉煌冒险
嘿,各位徒步爱好者和冒险家!如果你曾经梦想征服太平洋西北地区最标志性的背包路线,那就开始准备吧——因为我们这8位勇敢的灵魂刚刚完成了这项壮举。魔法区横贯(Enchantment Traverse)是一条穿越华盛顿阿尔卑斯湖荒野区(Alpine Lakes Wilderness)魔法区的点对点全程徒步路线,它的名声不虚——考验耐力、意志力和对山脉的热爱。这次为期4天的旅行(2025年9月28日至10月1日)从烟雾缭绕的开端,到刺骨的雨水,再到令人惊叹的阿尔卑斯景观,既残酷又壮丽。跟我一起重温旅程的高潮(和低谷),包括逐日分解。
背景:为什么选择魔法区?
魔法区横贯不是休闲散步——它是一条要求32-35公里(20-22英里)的路线,前半段挤满了超过1400米的海拔上升,后半段则是膝盖剧痛的下坡。它分为四个鲜明部分,捕捉了这个必打卡景点的精髓:
1. 前往Colchuck湖的徒步:通过茂密森林的中等陡峭8公里爬升,沿途是易于跟随、维护良好的小径。这里人潮涌动——大多数人同时出发,最初走同一条路。大家都冲着那翠蓝色的湖水和标志性的Dragontail峰倒影而来。这是“轻松”的热身,但别被骗了。
2. 征服Aasgard山口:旅程的猛兽。这2公里、700米上升平均坡度35%,穿越松散的碎石、岩石和泥土,由石堆标记。这是分水岭——许多人中途折返,但我们背着沉重的背包坚持下来,变成了全身的煎熬。
3. 魔法区核心:纯净的魔法。超过6公里的漫步,穿越石楠草地、花岗岩板和一连串纯净的阿尔卑斯湖(Isolation湖、Tranquility湖、Perfection湖——你能想到的都有)。锯齿状的山峰如奇幻小说般耸立。这是所有努力的回报:小径由石堆标记,导航简单,但带张地图以安心。许多团体在这里的惊人湖泊停留(或多停几个)。
4. 下坡至Snow Lakes起点:不那么光彩的终章。Viviane湖后,是15+公里的下坡——前2公里丑陋、缓慢且陡峭,需要在岩石上攀爬。其余部分大多轻松快捷,但乏味。你会在Upper Snow和Nada湖得到些许喘息,但总体上是漫长、疲惫的跋涉。
我们通过残酷的抽签系统拿到了许可(感谢我们的组织者中签!),加上我们8人——来自各行各业的挚友,因对史诗小径的共同渴望而联结——我们准备好大干一场。
第一天:9月28日– 公路旅行与烟雾期待
我们早上10:00从不列颠哥伦比亚省萨里(Surrey, BC)出发,两辆车挤满人,驱车约6小时抵达华盛顿州Leavenworth(边境过关缩短到约4小时,谢天谢地)。空气中弥漫着附近野火的烟雾——能见度一般,预报也有些朦胧。我们下午晚些时候抵达Leavenworth,在迷人的巴伐利亚风格市中心散步伸展腿脚。户外商店的最后补给采购(多买双袜子,谁知道呢?),来份丰盛的巴伐利亚椒盐卷零食,然后早早入住汽车旅馆,梦见晴空。
第二天:9月29日 – 进入魔法区:烟雾、煎熬与寒冷欢迎
天刚亮就起床!我们8:00抵达Stuart Lake起点(海拔约1036米)。接驳时间:放下所有人,两辆车开到Snow Lakes起点(往返50分钟),并在仪表盘上骄傲展示打印许可。9:00返回Stuart,我们扛起大背包(多日装备20-30公斤),一头扎进去。
• 第一段:3.7公里到岔路口,然后左转向Colchuck湖。再加4.3公里上坡穿越森林——稳定但风景优美。到湖总计约8公里。
• 猛兽:Aasgard山口。天哪。那1.6公里、580米上升是真正的煎熬。脚下松散泥土滑动,岩石考验平衡,那些背包像锚一样拉扯我们后退。我们喘气、吹嘘,并在顶峰击掌庆祝,人群稀疏——只有铁杆分子继续前进。
我们下坡进入核心区,目标Tranquil湖营地。全天总计11公里,但1459米上升感觉像是两倍。就在湖边支起帐篷时,傍晚开始下小雨——烟雾的解脱,明天空气清新。殊不知……
第三天:9月30日 – 从暴雨到喜悦:漫长下坡
……小雨会变成大暴雨。蜷缩在Tranquil湖的睡袋里,气温骤降。雨水猛敲帐篷,风呼啸,早上我们都成了颤抖的残兵败将——牙齿打战,手指麻木。“冷”不足以形容;那是全面的抖动派对。但嘿,有积极一面:风暴洗刷天空成水晶般清澈。
我们在蓝天条件下拆营,挑战下坡:
• 穿越核心:漫步经过Perfection湖、Sprite瀑布和Snow湖——落叶松金黄(秋色正盛!)。
• 下坡煎熬:总计21公里,约1980米下降。Viviane湖后头2公里丑陋——陡峭岩石攀爬震动每个关节。然后,无尽的之字路到Snow Lakes起点。乏味?当然。但那些湖泊喘息保持了士气。
我们下午晚些时候胜利出山,尘土飞扬却得意洋洋,挤回车里。
第四天:10月1日 – 巴伐利亚告别与返家
今天不赶路——我们在Leavenworth悠闲度过早晨。逛逛商店,在秋阳下啜饮咖啡,然后在Four Seasons自助餐厅大快朵颐午餐(专业提示:他们的炒菜站传奇)。接着,约6小时开车回萨里,一路交换故事,谋划下次冒险。晚上到家,酸痛却微笑。
结语:值得每一步水泡
呼。魔法区横贯很挑战——烟雾、无情的山口、寒潮——但无比值得。那些阿尔卑斯湖?超凡脱俗。我们8人的友情?无价。如果你体能好、准备充分且许可幸运,把这个加到你的清单。它不是徒步;它是成年礼。
感谢回顾——你的最狂野背包故事是什么?评论区见!
Highlights #1 Video Courtesy of Cynthia
Highlights #2 Video Courtesy of Yuki